Myanmar - From The Seat Of My Bike

Who would have thought it possible to expand one’s education, general knowledge and execute research into foreign cultures, all whilst sitting on a bicycle seat. 

Not only did Debbie and I acquire these gifts whilst cycling around the expansive area near Inle Lake, Myanmar, but we developed ourselves on a more personal level too. That long, crazy cycle required generous amounts of stamina and plenty of courage and perseverance. Our ability to simply absorb and enjoy each moment, to be fully present in the now, took precedence over everything.

There was no planned route. No estimated times of arrival. No clear destinations. In fact, no clue as to where we would end up, making it all that more exhilarating. Setting off in convoy, we cycled along the foothills of the Blue Mountains. They provided their own beautiful barricade. Somehow watching over us. Imposing helpful limitations on us which in turn brought a sense of comfort. We kept the lake on our right. We cycled past fields of emerald-green. Interspersed with giant banana palms. On either side of the road, thick undergrowth lay in stillness. A silent message warning that no Man should tread deeper into the depths of the palette of dark greens. They were host to sacred land. And had been ever since the beginning of time. They grasped hidden secrets and mysteries of the past. Not for us to witness or on which to encroach. Nature clearly was the custodian of the powers that exist.

I’m always reminded of just how great we humans are. That inner desire we possess to create a shelter and to produce food leads us onwards. In the midst of rice paddies, charming bamboo houses with corrugated tin roofs bore testament to this aspiration. They were of natural tones of grey colour, rather dull, but displayed splurges of bright colours offered by the washing or clothes out to dry. The structures were always quaint and full of character somehow. What bothered me were the locations of these homes. Vivid imagination I have. Cycling a wee bit faster, visions of the many snakes and other creatures residing in the dense metre-high reeds, appeared before my eyes. I have a strong dislike for anything that crawls or slithers. Having said that, a few hours later we were enjoying a very local meal of freshwater eel …

We came upon two astonishing sights further down the deserted road. A lady sat comfortably on her haunches in the middle of nowhere. She was surrounded by baskets, corn and nuts. Sifting through her harvest, she didn’t even look up when we stopped to greet her. Lost in her own peaceful world, she picked at each kernel. The picture of contentment she portrayed.

A bit further we came upon a woman holding a baby in her arms. She stood completely motionless for ages. Staring out towards the mountains. The tiny one sat happily taking in the surroundings. Those of giant banana palms and jungle. It was uncomfortable leaving these ladies alone with not a soul in sight for miles. I recognised that those were my concerns surfacing. The women were so at peace in their solitude. In the middle of nowhere.

Our stomachs always determine our plans and that day was no exception. Starving we were. Yet very aware that we may not find suitable food. The road forked and we followed the dirt strip for about a kilometre. Through that thick vegetation I mentioned earlier. My heart leapt for joy when a clearing appeared and we were on the banks of the lake. We parked our bikes and headed on foot to where a huge floating village lay sleepily on the waters. Following the graceful Debbie, with my not-so-skilful balancing skills, along the rickety wooden walkways over dark, murky waters, was a touch nerve-wracking. She looked at the scenery. I kept my eyes on her heels.

As always, colour was evident everywhere. The boats, the clothing on the people and the banners displaying local brands placed a medley of colours against the emerald green of Mother Nature.

I was uncomfortable knowing that the houses and other structures were all being supported by skinny bamboo poles. Their bases well below the water. Hence everything moved as one walked across the floors and walkways. The absolute beauty of both nature and the colourful longtail boats brought me to my senses. I relaxed completely and absorbed exactly where I was. The people were just so welcoming. Tiny, with delicate bone structures, but they possessed the biggest hearts and smiles. I guess they were more fascinated by our size and our hair colour. Mouthing that we needed food, a lady showed Debbie the direction of a restaurant. Once again I shoved my nerves into my legs and wobbled across more strips of wood, taking care not to look down at those menacing waters below my feet.

We were met by an explosion of colour. Lime green walls of bamboo welcomed us on board this intriguing wooden island. The bright yellow chairs greeted us too. Their vividness announcing to the world of their existence. Adding a certain sparkle to the mesmerizing scene. The dark waters surrounding this captivating beauty assumed an even darker tone. In respect for all the magnificent colour, they provided a bolder backdrop. Content to support in silent strength. At that moment, the few clouds above too stood in solidarity with the waters below, dimming their own brightness in acknowledgement of the restaurant’s presence.

As profound as our introduction to that local eating house was, so too were the aromas of garlic and herbs, the refreshing cold beer and the firm wooden floorboards beneath my feet. Instantly our spirits were lifted. We feasted on the most incredible food. Potato and avocado salads, accompanied by crispy rice cakes – the real deal – provided everything needed to replace our energy. All the dishes were served on enormous deep green lotus  flower leaves. A delicate, yet thoughtful touch to our experience in the middle of nowhere. The zest for life was tangible that day. I am forever grateful that I have the right eyes to truly see these things around me. No matter how small each one may be. They are gifts.

Those dark waters continued to offer support to wonderfully bold colours throughout our visit. Large colourful wooden houses lined the water’s edge. No doubt, housing many people each night. They provided a personal touch to what was a backdrop of pristine beauty. The mountains were magnificent. The waters twinkled as the sunlight danced across the surface, her brilliance kissing each ripple. Nature had once again created a masterpiece. 

Later that afternoon we boarded a boat and witnessed an unbelievable sight. We saw what appeared to be walking on water. A religious ceremony, the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival, was taking place. Each year four Buddha images, smothered in gold leaf, are taken around Inle Lake to provide the population an opportunity to pay homage. Dozens and dozens of people stood balancing on what must be the longest rafts possible. Each person with an oar in hand, they moved as one body. United in their belief system. The waters made a gentle rushing sound as their procession passed. Goosebumps took hold of my body. I was witnessing what Man is capable of but seldom does. That is, standing together for something we truly uphold. Our boat was guided as close as possible to the heart of the procession – a magnificent pagoda. We remained on our boat and absorbed the sounds of the hauntingly beautiful chanting as it wafted across the waters. The clouds and sky glistened in the heat of the day. Once again, the world was filled with bold, beautiful colour. 

That evening, back at the lodge in Nyaung Shwe, two weary bodies collapsed onto the nearest bench. Hearts bursting with happiness and satisfaction. A well-deserved drink in hand. And memories tucked away safely. To be recalled and celebrated in the years to come.