Khmer Kaleidoscope - First Impressions (continued)

Night-markets in the South East Asian countries have never failed to impress me. They possess mystical magic with the abundance of noise, people, movement, scents and of course, the treasures they hold for the buying. The old night-market of Siem Reap, Phsar Chas was no exception. Within the space, fabrics, woven mats, foods and a huge provision of goods, made from recycled plastic, created a rich tapestry of colour. Every bit of plastic is turned into something beautiful – wallets, bags, belts, ruck-sacks etc. The obvious sense of green and eco-friendly was evident on mass scale. Something we found quite refreshing after living in China, where there were horrendous amounts of wastage of plastic and nothing seemed to be done about it. The City of Temples, Siem Reap, could proudly be regarded as the city of trash to treasure.

Dr. Fish provided the most unusual, but heavenly, ending to a perfect day. After dinner on the pavement, amongst the crowds, we sat with our feet soaking in a huge bath of water. Within that water, dozens of tiny fish nibbled at our feet. A ghastly thought at first, but a most titillating experience it was!

A dear friend of ours, Nathalie, from the treasured Maison Polanka boutique hotel in Siem Reap, took over the reigns of Osmose, a NGO (non-government organisation)  supporting the floating communities of the Tonle Sap Lake. She then initiated the Saray CBET eco-tourism project in 2004. The group created all sorts of gorgeous baskets, mats and other woven items using the water hyacinth – an invasive aquatic plant - which continues to grow in and threaten the lake. Once again, the concern and care shown towards the environment was profound. Natural resources were always used in the making of all products. Needless to say, we supported the community well that day as our stately tuk-tuk was packed high with the goods.

Far-reaching employment was created when, in 1992 together with the ministry of education, Jean-Pierre created the Chantiers Écoles, a platform for vocational training.  Approximately ten thousand people, many of whom were soldiers, acquired skills in all areas of construction, gardening, stone and wood carving, a huge selection of handicrafts and the breeding of silkworms. With these skills, it became possible to  earn a decent living. Together with the artisans, the government and a private shareholder, Artisans d’Angkor was later created in 2000. The area consisted of endless workshops displaying wood and stone carvings, silver-plating and silk painting. A space where the pride and passion of the people for their achievements was clearly visible. As recognition for his work, the Kingdom of Cambodia granted Jean-Pierre citizenship.

After a few very relaxed days at the Bou Savy Guesthouse, we ventured off down the narrow dirt roads that criss-cross their way across Siem Reap. The dusky saffron robes worn by monks flowed like silk as their bare feet gently treaded the pathways of worship. Beside a huge Buddhist temple, Wat Polanka, a most exquisite space exists. Maison Polanka. This profoundly beautiful, elegant property is home to my friends, Natalie and Jean-Pierre. Together, they had created a place of which Cambodia is surely proud. An entire authentic Khmer house in the countryside was taken apart. Piece by much treasured piece. The load was then transported on a long-haul truck and lovingly rebuilt on this piece of land in Siem Reap. We were blessed to have spent three days living in this work of art. The wooden house exudes a sense of grace and simplicity. Huge windows welcome the sunshine each day. Whilst exquisite scents of local flowers and trees sneak silently into every corner of the wooden beams. Attention to detail is one of Maison Polanka’s signatures. Even a bunch of bananas was made to resemble a work of art. 

We enjoyed the thunderstorms during which the heavens opened in torrential downpours, leaving the skies thereafter a brilliant cobalt blue. The Khmer cuisine was divine. Every dish brimming with health, flavour and attention to the finer qualities. Fish sauce and lemongrass teased our taste buds. Forever calling us back for more.

We ventured out at the ungodly hour of four o’clock one morning. The three of us tucked up in The Red Satin Wonder, silent in anticipation of exploring one of the world’s wonders. Our first experience of the majestic Angkor Wat began twenty minutes before dawn. We sat huddled on the ledges of ancient walls. Waiting for the magical moment to see the first rays of the rising sun behind Angkor.  A sight that literally thousands of people come to witness each day. Palm trees stood silhouetted against the horizon. Total silence blanketed humanity as we waited for the golden moment.

Dawn slipped by unnoticed. The heavy clouds shielded her as she quietly made her way, skirting the deep green horizon. There was no magical moment. No burst of brilliant sunshine cascading down on the famous complex. In an instant, thousands of tourists got up and left without the classic photo being part of their Cambodian collection. They came, they waited and they left. Without even making the effort of taking a step closer to the actual Angkor Wat. The sea of humanity made their way to the waiting busses. Time to move on to the next attraction. Been there. Done that. Or not. Angkor Wat was then almost deserted. I gave silent thanks to the gods for the clouds overhead. Those which shielded us from the intense heat. And the masses too.

Minutes later we were swathed in brilliant sunshine. We explored the legendary Angkor Wat with its three-tiered pyramid and five towers. The towers rise sixty-five meters from ground level. One was reminded of just how small we humans are.  With their Angkorian art and architecture, the temples are indescribably beautiful. We stood in awe of the mystical world around us. The ghosts of the past held us captive. It seemed futile to comprehend how Man had created such beauty. 

Serenity shrouded the entire complex.  Nature and temples stood entwined. Relying on one another for support. For continued life. Huge trees protruded at all angles from the walls. Reaching out and up towards the sky. Beneath one’s feet, a seemingly endless carpet of thick, dark green moss provided some respite from the already scorching rays of the sun. It covered the walls, the trees and the temples in a loving embrace of protection.

Amidst the ancient temples, modernity reared its head. Bulldozers and cranes worked at a snail’s pace in order not to damage the treasured past, as necessary maintenance and reconstruction took place. That in itself, is a story on its own. One which I most certainly am not qualified to write about. What was fascinating to see, was the tender care with which each and every massive block was handled. Sacred and respected they certainly were.

I was saddened to see a little girl selling bracelets and postcards. She couldn’t have been more than five years old. Hard times call for tough measures. A most captivating lady gave us her blessing. Nobody knew how old she was. Her face was a canvas of lines. Each one depicting a story or an event that made up her many years on earth. Little did I know then that this same lady would give my mother a blessing many years later. Little did I know then that Debbie would be permanently living a short distance from those temples one day. And that I would be in lockdown during a pandemic for six months in Siem Reap. A reminder that we never know what’s around the corner and that each day is precious to us. A reminder not to get disheartened when one door closes. The next one holds a brand-new chapter full of promises and new beginnings.

There were many local artists capturing the beauty of the temples on canvas. Each one gently guiding the paintbrushes across the canvas. Silently in their own world. A world of creativity and of portraying their thoughts and emotions. 

Thanks to my precious friends, Frankie and Jenni, for sharing this fabulous experience with me. May our adventures together be far from over.