Yangon - Where Grand Ole Dames Reign Supreme

It was the year 2017. I could be forgiven for believing otherwise. Surrounded by ghosts of the past, I wandered along the streets of Yangon.  Remnants of bygone eras occupied broken pavements. History stood tall. Proudly showcasing some of her best jewels.

A friend of mine referred to the old colonial buildings scattered across the city as the grand ole venerable dames. A befitting description indeed. Each distinguished lady stood in her own magnificence. Regally looking down upon modernity infiltrating her realm. Perhaps at times, they looked down in disdain. There were those who certainly bore the features of sadness. If not offence and horror too. Their designs and attention to detail displayed the highest level of excellence.

As each building stood in silence, I could hear the whisperings of the past. Wafting through shattered windows. Broken doors. It was hauntingly beautiful. Sad. And yet, I was honoured to be facing them. Acknowledging their presence. For both now and for their most important roles played in history. A history rich and extremely complicated.

My imagination went wild as I wondered what and who exactly those buildings had accommodated. Had witnessed. Historical chapters such as British colonial rule and an invasion by the Japanese had occurred before their eyes. Not to forget the current military coup smothering the magnificence of these treasured buildings under a cloud of evil. Yet the grand dames of Yangon continue to command the respect and awe of befitting leaders. They lift one upwards into an era of which we know so little. 

The city is home to the largest number of colonial-era buildings in Southeast Asia. Tragically the passage of time, interspersed with pollution and the heavy beatings of the monsoon rains, has done much to erode the former beauty of these ladies. Neglect too has played a large part in their weakening state. Many buildings stand in disrepair. In 2017 a survey noted that there are 6000 heritage buildings in Yangon. Over a thousand old buildings had been torn down to make way for housing. Urgent intervention is needed to save the treasured dames. Thankfully, the Yangon City Heritage has been created to preserve the many valuable heritage sites.

The neo-classical style Port Authority building became the first landmark I would recognise whilst running around Yangon. Not only did it serve as the headquarters of the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company back in the days when Yangon’s port was one of the busiest in the world, but it reminded me of the fact that the Strand Hotel was nearby. That coolness and elegance awaited me within the walls of the luxurious space. I wallowed in the knowledge that greats such as Gandhi and John Gielgud, the British actor, had walked the same streets as I was. 

The Accountant General Building on Pansodan Road is another building in need of some serious tender loving care. She stands proudly on a corner, extending herself along two converging streets. Displaying her classic colonial structure. She too was severely damaged during the Japanese bombing in 1942. I stopped to greet this masterpiece many times. To appreciate the magnitude and attention to detail that she upheld. On each occasion, deep emotions filled my heart. If only I had the means to restore her to her former beauty. Despite thick foliage sprouting from every corner and crack in her structure, this treasure emitted elegance and status. I loved her.

I have mentioned before how the Victorian-styled Strand Hotel, built in 1896, provided me with a retreat from the unforgiving heat of the day. It is an exquisite place holding its own rich history. During the 1945 Japanese invasion of Burma, troops used the building as quarters. This occupation was followed by many years of neglect. In 1993 the fully renovated hotel found its rightful place as one of the most prestigious hotels in the world. Despite its tragic past, the Strand Hotel exudes a heightened level of serenity and elegance.

My days spent in the city somehow ended up in the Strand Hotel bathroom to freshen up before heading to what became my favourite restaurant. Sofaer. Tucked up on street level in the Lokanat building, Sofaer became my safe place. My comfort bubble. On days of being horribly homesick, or exhausted, or simply in search of quiet and relaxation, I would sit at my favourite table and get lost in the ambience of the past. The food was always incredible. Superb pickled tea leaf salad would remedy the heat of the day. Whilst my first experience of coconut chicken noodles occurred in Sofaer. The dish is heaven on a plate! Much to my amusement and that of my friends, a cocktail called Insein Ingrid is also served in Sofaer. 

Sofaer has a deep blue entrance. Exhibiting a stately richness. The interior displays the passage of time in a most refined manner. I tried to conjure up images of what life had held within the walls of the building. The beautiful floor tiles of over one hundred years old were imported from Manchester city. They alone transported me to another era. Rich in colour and complex detail, the tiles add warmth and character to what is already an incredibly beautiful space.

The Lokanat building dates back to 1906. It was the cosmopolitan core of commerce in Yangon. Within its hugely thick walls, goods from Egypt, Greece, Germany and England could be purchased. The building has been home to merchants, insurance companies, banks and even the forestry department. Not to forget the famous Sofaer family, for whom it had been built. Today this four-storey building houses the first modern art gallery in Yangon amongst other intriguing places in which to spend money.

So as my outings to the city came to a close and I headed home to my apartment, Sofaer and her friendly staff would wave me on. Always ensuring that the driver fully understood where to take me. That the door of the taxi was closed properly.

To be continued …