Harbin - The Real Treasures

Besides sausages, we discovered the charm, the magic and the energy of the people of Harbin. They are tough. They are resilient. They are red-faced. Their rugged hands  bear the signs of a lifetime packed with hard physical work. Many delivered groceries without the protection and warmth of gloves. Having been exposed to the harshest of elements day in and day out, their skin is cracked. Resembling unprocessed leather. Their hearts are warm. They burst with pride when talking about their City of Ice. 

The Harbin folk are friendly and have an intense desire to help one. On many occasions our taxi drivers literally went the extra mile to make us feel welcome. They too offered us protection from the clutches of certain people who prey on tourists. One such tigress had no problem man-handling adults. Half our height, twice our width, she jolted us by the hips into perfect rows when awaiting entrance to the festival. This short nuclear bomb clearly derived satisfaction from taking charge. We quietly froze to death under her watch. On her command, access to the festival was granted. 

During our travels, we usually avoid the main tourist attractions. Electing to  take the road less travelled. In pursuit of discovering the local treasures. Whether they be of the human kind, the culinary kind or the material kind. Harbin’s food market provided a platform on which to observe one of the most fascinating shows. Filled with a tapestry of vibrant life and simple survival. Against a backdrop of solid white ice. Vendors sold goods from carts. The heavenly aroma of sweet potatoes on red-hot coals wafted through icy cold air. 

We wandered around, in absolute awe of the people. Working no doubt, extremely long hours in sub-zero temperatures. Their minds and bodies conditioned. Accepting and embracing extreme challenges. Each person prepared and cooked their cuisines as they did every day of the year. Standing within the shoulder-high walls of their designated area. Mammoth ice blocks, cut out of the frozen Songhua River, formed the solid walls. In Chinese, Songhua means the river in heaven. It flows for 1,434 kilometres from the Changbai Mountains through the Jilin and Heilongjiang provinces. We crossed that mighty river several times as it lay in complete silence. Buried deep within the metres of compacted ice, the flow of life continued.

The vendors in each stall wore heavily protective clothing. Their movements were slow and defined. Their breath and the steam from the hot food mingled. Creating mystical pathways reaching upwards. I couldn’t help feel a wave of sadness and pity towards these people of great mental and physical resilience. Had they spent lifetimes carving out a meagre living for their families under severe conditions. Wondering if they had other options, my level of respect for these unshakable souls soared. To be so accepting of one’s circumstances is truly a lesson for all to observe.

The real treasures of Harbin, those robust souls, have a deep respect for their environment. Embracing what Mother Nature has provided. With the right attitudes  and skills, they have transformed their world into a hugely successful money-spinner that benefits a large percentage of the society. The Snow and Ice Festival is internationally famous. And so it should be. 

To be continued …