The Silk Road - Secrets of Another World

“Be careful what you wish for,” I called out to my mom, Yvonne, as I chuckled beneath my breath. She had visited us often in the Middle Kingdom. With her 80th birthday fast approaching, I offered her the choice of celebrating in any activity or in any restaurant in Beijing. After all, turning eighty is a significant milestone and where better to celebrate it than in the fascinating capital of China. With a sense of wickedness and the mischief of a child, Yvonne’s choice was made known. She wanted to ride a camel in the deserts of Xinjiang …

I don’t ever travel with a guided tour, preferring to explore new horizons on my own steam. However, due to the location of the adventure and mom’s age, I chose to err on the side of caution and sign up for the 10-day trip exploring The Silk Road with a group which excels in what they offer. One which had a history and in-depth knowledge of exploring far-off lands. Lands that had existed only in my dreams or on the discoloured pages of The Children’s Bible. Xinjiang, the Uighur Autonomous Region in northwest China, was one such place. Whilst providing for our every need, The China Culture Club elevated our adventure to a level beyond all expectations.

Prior to our journey along The Silk Road, I knew nothing about Xinjiang. That mystical place on the ancient road with its borders onto Mongolia in the northeast, Russia to the north, Kazakstan in the northwest, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan and Pakistan to the west, and Tibet to the south. That location in itself held a fascination for me. Not to forget the mysteries of the past that lay deeply embedded in the very fibres of the desert and its mountains. Bordering eight countries, Xinjiang, a vital link along the ancient Silk Road, encompasses a total area of 1.66 million square kilometres. This region was not only of the utmost importance in the past as it linked the east and the west - providing trade routes amidst treacherous terrain.  It is now an important link in the Belt and Road Initiative, China’s massive development plan stretching through Asia and Europe. Xinjiang is home to China's largest coal and natural gas reserves and, with its extensive wind turbine project, is pivotal to China’s future energy independence. 

Preparations were made for our journey. A visit to an international hospital proved to be the provider of bad news. They strongly advised us not to visit the region due to the extremely high altitudes we would be enduring. “A woman of eighty should not even consider doing that trip,” I was told. “It is highly irresponsible.” A guarantee that oxygen would be available if needed, could not be secured. Equipped with this dismal news, I headed home to tell Yvonne. Her response was short and to the point. And unprintable.

Despite a sense of foreboding gnawing at my better judgement, our day started at 4:30am. An enchanting time of the morning when the streets of Beijing remain in deep slumber. When silence extends her sweet embrace before the masses arise. Taking off from Beijing Capital International Airport, our excitement was tangible. Flying west for almost 3.5 hours to Dunhuang, situated on the edge of the Taklamakan and Gobi Deserts, one was reminded of the vastness of China. Below the wings lay expanses of desert and snow-covered mountains. The extremes of Mother Nature in full display. Such infinite beauty to behold.

Dunhuang, also known as ‘The City of Sands,’ welcomed us with its infinite golden sands stretching far beyond the horizons. Covering a vast 320,000 square kilometres, the Taklamakan Desert occupies the central part of the Tarim Basin. It is at Dunhuang where the Gobi Desert meets the Taklamakan Desert. This city is regarded by some as the ‘Cradle of Buddhism.’ We wandered through the  ‘Caves of The Thousand Buddhas’ - also known as the Mogao Caves.  The 492  presently preserved caves are carved into 1600 metre high cliffs and are filled with rich collections of ancient Buddhist murals and 2400 clay sculptures. An aura of both serenity and absolute wonderment at Man’s creations engulfed us. I felt small and insignificant in the face of such attainment.

There is nothing quite like the magic of a desert landscape to support one in finding serenity. That extraordinary serenity leading to the quietness buried deep within us. Tucked up on the bus beside my mom, I gazed out at the sheer beauty of nothingness. Of expanses of sand. Of the gentleness present in the moment. Romantic images of camels gingerly making their way across the sands appeared in my mind. Bearing their goods with pride and grace. Silk, gold and silver. Religious influences, philosophies and dreams too, needed to be transported. The mystery of it all stirred something inside me. I too am a traveller. One who values the ecstatic joy that discovering new lands and cultures brings forth. Gratitude for my experiences once more embraced me.

My state of bliss was soon enough transformed to one of apprehension. A harsh reminder that the purpose of this unique journey was to celebrate Yvonne’s 80th birthday became apparent in the solid form of one very ugly camel. I opted to be the photographer – with both feet firmly planted on the ground. Riding camels was never on my to-do-list. Nervous giggles escaped my mouth as mom scrambled, as gracefully as she could, onto the waiting camel. Within minutes, amidst laughter and challenges, I too was perched on the abrasive and most uncomfortable back of my own camel.

Together in a long line of other adventure-seekers, we formed our own caravan. There were moments when I stepped back in time and imagined myself dressed in robes of wafting silk with bracelets of gold and rubies adorning my arms. The gentle rocking motion created by the camel, causing my jewels to tinkle. I was following my path through the mighty dunes of magnificence. Sadly this was not my reality. The monumental sand dunes of the Mingshashan Mountain were truly spectacular. Marco Polo referred to them as, ‘The Rumbling Sands.’ There was nothing silky or smooth about my ride. I bounced around with force on that nasty creature. His body odours sickening. Getting awfully up close and personal, he bit the poor beast alongside us, with me nervously beholding his malice.  Little did I know that these creatures of the desert have forceful biting and kicking habits. However, their magnificent eyelashes, which protect their eyes from the harsh sun, made up for their lack of good manners. 

My combined emotions of terror and absolute ecstasy held me captive. As did the beast on which I travelled. That said, Yvonne sat on her monster with superb style and acceptance of the fact that she was not the captain in charge on this flight. She and her camel were gracefully united in this epic celebration. I was bursting with pride and respect for her sense of fun. For her ability to live in the moment and the experience fully. 

We came upon one of the natural wonders of the Gobi Desert. Crescent Moon Lake resembled an emerald jewel lying within a bed made of cream-coloured satin. Its crystal clear spring waters reflecting the lush green oasis beside which it rested. The lake, believed to be approximately 2000 years old, is completely surrounded by sand dunes, some reaching heights of 250 metres. The lake was originally part of the Danghe River, but formed a separate  lake when the river changed its course. Through the passage of time, the water levels had dropped alarmingly. In order to save this gem of the Gobi, the local government stepped in and filled the lake to restore its depth.The inevitable throng of tourists, clad in their luminous orange boot-covers, so as to be easily seen against the backdrop of sand, dotted the dunes as they either walked, rode or slid down from dizzy heights. An aura of festivity mingled between sand and Man. Humanity paying tribute to nature.

In the few hours spent exploring the dunes, the sands displayed a rich palette of various hues. Pristine beauty captured. Beyond that, majestic vastness. Seemingly limitless horizons. A glorious sunset lifted us into another world. We were at one with this ancient Silk Road. 

To be continued ...