A Dream Realised

Amaan Bungalows on Nungwi beach awaited us. Its pristine natural beauty shrouding us. Feeding our souls. After two days, we bid farewell to our tour group. To new friendships born on the road. Jenni and I needed more time spent in the warm, crystal clear waters of the Indian Ocean. Its immense coral reef beckoning us each day to explore what lies within. 

Our days on the beach were perfection itself. Time was valued. Experiences more so. Scrumptious meals of seafood savoured. Swimming in heavenly waters cherished. Long leisurely walks on unspoiled beaches appreciated. In the heat of the day, we shopped for local art. 

Evenings were spent watching modern-day Masaai warriors in traditional dress, playing soccer on the beach. Dhows displayed their white triangular sails. Moving gracefully through the waves. Their history dating back to ancient times. Fishermen walked proudly with their abundant catch of the day. Everyone was friendly. And at peace. The word “Karibo”, which means “Welcome” in Swahili, was generously used. 

We woke early. Strolled along the beach in search of new horizons. The heat intensified. Dramatically. We found a shady spot and cherished the experience. The gift of doing nothing other than appreciating the moment amidst such beauty. I loved the local kids playing in the waves. The donkey cart obscurely making its way through the shrub. The simplicity of it all.

A fisherman came over and said, “You stay here. I cook for you.” We stayed. He cooked. Mouth-watering fresh fish. Vegetables. Salad and rice. There was no desire to walk anywhere on hot sands. Our bodies and minds were more than satisfied. Jenni and I watched the skies blacken with heavy clouds. Waves  whipped up into a frenzy. The wooden sailboats sought shelter on the shore. The scorching heat continued. Intense and blinding.

Our blissful days on the beach came to an end. The mysteries of Stone Town beckoned once more. Our priority being to find and experience the famous Zanzibar Coffee House. We traversed the ancient alleyways. Heat soared as it does. Humidity drenched our skin. In the shade of a colossal Banyan tree, we stopped to drink freshly squeezed lime, ginger and sugar cane juice. Liquid gold. Provided us with hugely significant moments of sheer pleasure.

The ‘Long March’ continued through fascinating old-world areas. Some more questionable than others. Each and every corner of Stone Town has history deeply embedded in its walls. The remarkable faces of the elderly staring back at us. Haunting gazes. The sharp contrast of black and white robes gliding by in silence. The vendors hovering over their inches of cobblestones. A surreal experience. The unforgettable sound of prayers echoing against the walls. Seemingly following our steps. Watching over us. Guiding us perhaps. Hours passed.

In an alleyway, deep inside the ancient town, Jenni and I sipped the rich, dark coffee. The Zanzibar Coffee House embraced us. Made us feel welcome. We had arrived. Mission accomplished. The place was everything we had ever expected. And more. In the midst of an ancient world, we received the comfort and elation of modern times. In a cup. I imagined how elated Livingstone must have felt when he came upon the mighty Victoria waterfalls. Perhaps almost as good as we felt on that day in Zanzibar. 

Every morning, over the next few days, we made the pilgrimage to the coffee house. The locals began to recognise us. “Bafana Bafana” they yelled. Each walk-about presented a unique scenario. Filled with local delicacies. Filled with fascinating, beautiful people. Filled with the energy that is Stone Town. We ate at the famous Livingston House. Originally the British Consulate. David Livingston’s body had been kept there before shipping it back to England. His heart had been removed and buried in Africa. Where it belonged. 

Our remarkable African adventure came to an end. We boarded the flight to Cape Town. To winter. To Soccer World Cup madness. To a vastly different part of Africa. One equally as fascinating and as beautiful. But never quite as wild and as exhilarating.