Searching Further Afield

The day ended in a campsite on the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater. Jenni and I slept in a tent, back to back, in a futile attempt to keep from freezing to death. We had been warned that it was not safe to leave our tent during the night as elephants made a habit of walking through the area. Hence the presence of guards armed with huge, threatening elephant guns wandering amongst the tents. This created a personal crisis. The anti-malaria tablets I was taking, had an adverse effect on me. I was seriously ill. Prompting many visits to investigate the plumbing – well situated beyond the sign which read, “Beware of the elephants!” 

The safety of our vehicle came none too soon the following morning. An elephant bull greeted us up close and personal. I realised then the value of the elephant guards. We wrapped up in our brightly coloured Maasai blankets with layers of our clothing beneath the folds. An attempt to curb the biting cold whilst sitting in the open-air jeep. Perhaps too, an attempt to hide the shivers of fear running through my body. The steep narrow tracks down into the actual crater robbed our attention. An exhilarating experience. Winding slowly down towards the basin, my senses were on high alert. We were entering into a world in which time seemingly stood still. Pristine. Untouched beauty. Stepping back into the history of our planet.

Ngorongoro crater was formed two million years ago. It is the largest unflooded and unbroken caldera in the world. Approximately 20 kilometres across and 600 metres deep. The rim is 600 metres high. The area forms part of the Serengeti ecosystem. As a result, it provides a haven for animals. Along the rim of the crater are the most stunning emerald green rainforests. Dense and lush. Hundreds of animals and birds live within this area. The savannah grasslands provide food and shelter. There is no shortage of water. The sheer natural beauty of the crater was breath-taking. The silence profound.

Godlisten provided an insight as to how deeply the Swahili people love and respect their country. There is a deep bond and understanding between man and beast. We criss-crossed the crater for about five hours. Capturing and securing each unique sight in our minds forever. A picnic under a fever tree seemed to be the most appropriate way in which to pay homage to this corner of Africa. The wonder of nature is at times, inconceivable for our human minds to grasp. The Ngorongoro Crater ignited a deepened sense of spirituality. For hours on end, nobody spoke. We were united in awe.

A snack of peanut butter sandwiches followed. Steaming hot coffee in tin mugs brought warmth to our bodies. We were all back in our seats on board faithful Ella. The road took us along the base of Mount Meru (4600m). A kaleidoscope of green countryside and women dressed in the brightest prints. Huge banana trees and endless fruit sellers lined the tar road on which Ella so knowingly rattled along. The soil on either side of the road was a rich, dark colour. I felt a longing to make mud-pies. To feel that earth between my fingers and toes. How I wished I could introduce the Beijing kids to that pleasurable contact. A sensorial revelation. 

Looking out the window, memories of the familiar scents created after heavy rains had fallen upon hot African earth, flooded my thoughts. I felt an intense sense of belonging. To this continent. To the environment. To the mud huts dotted on the slopes of mountains. To the old man leaning heavily on his walking stick. To the donkey-carts. Freshly picked cashew nuts hung heavily in plastic bags from roadside trees. The magic of those captured moments silently filled my heart. Punctuated by the shrill of vendors trying to earn a few pennies.

We travelled past Mount Kilimanjaro. I knew she was right there. Watching over us. However, she would not present herself. Disappointment became the predominant emotion. The road carried us past modest local schools. Jenni and I both alone with our thoughts. Thinking of transfers. 

Twenty kilometres further, Mike yelled at us, “You guys are so damn lucky. There she is.” We scrambled up the extremely narrow ladder secured on Ella’s side to the rooftop. I gasped. There, in all her majestic glory, was Mount Kilimanjaro. The clouds strayed from the summit. Standing at 5895m, the snow-capped volcano is the highest mountain in Africa and the highest single free-standing mountain in the world.

To be continued …